Visiting Deshaies in Guadeloupe, the setting for the BBC series “Death in Paradise” was a bit surreal for me.
Have you ever visited a theme park? Disney’s Main Street, for example, or Harry Potter studio, where the designers do their best to create a feeling that you’ve been transported to another place or time: a place or time you already know well?

That’s how I felt in Deshaies, yet it’s not an invented village built to entertain tourists. It’s an actual village that looks just as I imagined it.
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Deshaies, Guadeloupe and “Death in Paradise”
Before I left for Guadeloupe, I wrote about how I chose my destination: because of “Death in Paradise.” I love the scenery in that show, set on the fictional Caribbean island of Saint Marie, and decided that it was as good a way as any to choose which Caribbean island to visit. That’s how I found myself visiting Guadaloupe and, in particular, this place that felt so familiar, even though I’d never been there before: Deshaies, where most of the show’s action takes place.
(Before I go on, a message for any of the cast and crew of “Death in Paradise” who might happen upon this post: I am not some creepy stalker. I have greatly enjoyed every episode of your show, but what I really fell in love with was the setting.)

Small buildings, some of them brightly painted, are arrayed along a peaceful bay, dotted with fishing boats. A church stands above the village on a rise. Serving as a clear reminder of our mortality, a huge cemetery looms on a hill, visible from pretty much anywhere. The cemetery, by the way, is usually carefully excluded from the filming of “Death in Paradise.”

To me, it was very clear why the producers chose Deshaies for the “Death in Paradise” set:
- It’s the prettiest village in Guadeloupe, in my opinion.
- It allows the cast and crew to spend half their year in the real Deshaies.
Deshaies seemed to me more touristy than any other towns I visited on the western “wing” of Guadeloupe, which is called Basse Terre, though it’s still not very touristy. It’s home to a few more seafood restaurants than a village that size would have, with higher prices. Many of the shops seemed more prosperous than the average. But you’d have to go to the eastern “wing” of the country to find a truly tourism-oriented economy.
You might also enjoy these other articles about places in Guadeloupe:
“Death in Paradise” filming locations
I visited the restaurant featured in the show, which, in real life, is called Restaurant “Le Madras.” The wooden patio with a roof, right on the beach, was just as I “knew” it from the show. It looked just the same, if much less busy.

To soak up the atmosphere a bit, I ordered ice cream (passion fruit and guava sorbet, to be specific). The tiny waves lapped at the beach just below me. The chickens picked for food. Hardly anyone was around except for a few customers in the restaurant itself across the tiny street.
It was quiet.
Peaceful.
Beautiful.
Paradise.

While you’re visiting that side of Guadeloupe, take the Plantation, Distillery, and Creole Garden Tour to see some of the other sights!
After my ice cream, I strolled up to the Catholic Church of Saints Peter and Paul, which is shown in the background of the show, but as far as I can remember it hasn’t been used for an interior scene yet.

Just where I expected to find it, right next to the church, was the building used in “Death in Paradise” as the police station. It was closed up, and there was no indication of what it is used for other than a filming location. I noticed, though, that the building next to it has window panes that have been painted onto wood shutters: the only remnant of the filming I came upon.

It was weird to see that so much about Deshaies matched the image in my head from watching “Death in Paradise.” Because of that, it was easy to think about the show as if it was real. I found myself thinking “If I lived in a town with so many murders, I would seriously consider moving away!”
Cue facepalm!
To read about all the best things to do in Guadeloupe, read my Guide to Guadeloupe!
Getting to Deshaies
Deshaies is in the northwest corner of Basse-Terre, the western “wing” of Guadeloupe.
There is a bus system in Guadeloupe, both line buses and little jitney vans. Unless you have a lot of time, though, I’d suggest either renting a car or taking a taxi to Deshaies. I rented a car for my whole stay. Since Guadeloupe is a French territory, the roads and signage are just like in France, which gave me a feeling of familiarity. From the airport, a taxi will cost around €50 and take 45 minutes to an hour. Make sure the cab has a meter or negotiate a price before you set off. If you want to travel around a lot, a rental car will end up costing less than relying on taxis.
From the airport, take the N1 west to the N2, which will take you right to Deshaies.
Another option, though, would be to take this tour to see several of the filming locations. It includes transportation from your hotel or the airport, as well as lunch.
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30 Comments
Trinisa
April 20, 2015 at 11:05 amMy husband and I watch the show and love it! So much so, that he wants to visit as well. Thanks for sharing your experience – now I REALLY can’t wait to go!
rachel75
April 20, 2015 at 11:45 amGo for it! I hope one of you knows a bit of French, though. English speakers are very few and far between in Guadeloupe.
Chris
April 20, 2015 at 9:29 pmI’m glad it didn’t disappoint!
Although I’m not familiar with the show, it looks a cute setting!
rachel75
April 20, 2015 at 11:03 pmIf you like murder mysteries in the old-fashioned style, it’s a good show. And the scenery!
Lauren
April 20, 2015 at 9:35 pmI’ve never watched the show before, but how neat that you got to visit a place that became recognizable to you through the show! It looks like such a beautiful place, very relaxing and the scenery is gorgeous. I have never been to Guadeloupe, though I’ve been to other spots in the Caribbean. I’ll have to consider it for a future trip.
rachel75
April 20, 2015 at 11:04 pmI highly recommend it! (Guadeloupe, but also the show!)
Doreen Pendgracs
April 21, 2015 at 2:24 pmRachel, I loved reading this post. I can truly feel the peace and happiness you are feeling via your words. Congrats on following your dream to visit a place that has touched you. It can happen via a TV show, a book, a movie, and someone’s passionate words. I have a feeling you will find your own story here, and I look forward to reading it!
rachel75
April 21, 2015 at 7:49 pmThanks for the kind words, Doreen!
Erin Southerland
April 22, 2015 at 4:35 pmI’ve never seen the show, but I know that surreal feeling well. Fan of the show or not, it looks like Deshaies would be a lovely town to visit!
rachel75
April 22, 2015 at 5:21 pmAbsolutely! It was lovely long before the producers of the series found it!
Tracie Howe
April 24, 2015 at 12:27 amIt’s always fun to visit the site of a show or movie. How great that this matched what you expected!
rachel75
April 24, 2015 at 2:43 amYes, it was!
Mitzi
April 27, 2015 at 7:54 amThanks for sharing, Rachel, I LOVE the show and can only dream of visits to the islands. Thank you for posting your great pictures.
rachel75
April 27, 2015 at 8:54 amGlad you enjoyed it!
Marta Grilo
April 28, 2015 at 12:15 amI’ve never seen the show but the places looks amazing! So peaceful and beautiful. Your photos and the things you’ve said makes me want to go there!
rachel75
April 28, 2015 at 4:47 pmWatch the show if you get a chance, and you might start planning a trip!
Shobha
June 14, 2015 at 8:47 pmI love Death in Paradise!! my husband thinks it’s boring. Have you been watching Tatau which is similar?
Rachel
June 14, 2015 at 10:19 pmNo, I’ve never heard of it. I suppose that it hasn’t gotten to the Netherlands yet. I’ll watch out for it!
John
August 2, 2019 at 3:49 pmRachel,
This post was awesome, thank you! My wife and I love the show and have often talked about visiting there. Did you get a sense of the people there? Did they enjoy the tourism/tourists as a result of the show? Also what time of year did you visit?
Thank you!
Rachel
August 2, 2019 at 5:52 pmGlad you liked it! Every single person I spoke to there in any capacity was warm and friendly and welcoming. My Airbnb host went out of his way to show me off-the-beaten-path sights. I think I would have enjoyed Guadeloupe with or without the show, but it certainly added to my visit to Deshaies in particular. I was there in April.
Lulu
December 27, 2015 at 1:04 pmThe TV series prompted us to visit, then consider staying, and then moving lock-stock-and-barrel. Loved reading your take on it and perhaps knowing that we are not quite that mad!!! 🙂
Rachel
December 27, 2015 at 9:35 pmYou live there? I’m jealous. I got home and told my husband it’s top of my list for places to retire. Legally speaking it wouldn’t be hard with our European passports. We’ re still some time away from retirement, but I just fell in love with Guadeloupe!
Erik
January 2, 2016 at 3:00 pmThanks a lot for posting this.
Wife and have seen the show in Norway and this February we will visit Guadeloupe and of course Deshaies.
Rachel
January 2, 2016 at 3:19 pmEnjoy! Such a pretty place!
Michael Schädler
August 24, 2016 at 5:34 pmI was in Deshaies 4 weeks ago. I also wanted to visit this village becouse of Death in Paradise.
I am a great Fan. I Live in Germany.I had the luck that the crew was there to film for the next series. And I meet Kris Marshall at the bar in my hotel. I have a picture me an him together. I also have pictures of the Police Station, the Policecar, and the Restaurant. It was a great pleasure for me to see the original places.
Rachel
August 24, 2016 at 8:56 pmIsn’t it beautiful? I would have LOVED to be able to watch the filming a bit! They were due back there just a few weeks after I visited. Oh well.
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August 29, 2017 at 8:06 pmjacanahi
December 5, 2018 at 5:31 amvery nice, i know this site and I love it so much !!
Steve
June 18, 2019 at 2:32 pmI only recently discovered this show, and so have been settling in on eight seasons to watch – thoroughly enjoyable so far 🙂 So much so that I too plan to visit this beautiful little town. Sure beats Canadian winters! This far-belated posting comes with my thanks for your article 🙂
Rachel
June 19, 2019 at 11:32 amI’m jealous! I’d so love to go back! Enjoy!