Walking the Portico di San Luca in Bologna
For centuries, in the city of Bologna, Italy, a byzantine image of the Madonna and Child was carried ceremoniously from the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca every year during Ascension week down to the Cathedral of San Pietro in the city center. It stayed there overnight, then was carried back up.
The problem was that the Sanctuary was far outside the medieval city walls. I’ve found several different estimates of the distance to San Pietro cathedral, but Google maps estimates the walking distance as 9.2 kilometers.
While many of the city sidewalks are covered by arcades, outside the city gate of Porto Saragossa, it hardly seemed respectful to carry that icon the remaining 3.8 kilometers outside the walls in the pouring rain or searing sun.
The solution, created in the 18th century, was to extend the arcades already built into many buildings within the walls all the way up to San Luca on the hill.
The result—an arcade (portico) 3.8 kilometers long—still stands, and still leads out of the city, winding up a hill in the countryside outside of Bologna to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. It’s the longest arcade in the world, and I walked it on my recent trip to Bologna.
I had just arrived that day, and, while it was quite cold out, it was a bright January day, so I decided to get a bit of exercise and, I hoped, get to the top of the hill before sunset.
I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I took Bus 20, as directed by the staff at Hotel Touring, where I stayed, past the traditional starting point at Saragozza gate. Instead, I got off at Meloncello, thanks to the helpful advice of a fellow bus passenger. From there the walk is about two kilometers, estimated to take about 40 minutes.
I didn’t know that at the time, though, and the walk is entirely uphill! I stopped frequently to take pictures and catch my breath, of course, so I’d guess it took me more like an hour. Long sections of the arcade are paved with flat stones, while other sections are stairways. The arcade winds along the slope of the hill once it leaves the city, so it kept deceiving me: I thought, “Oh, there’s the end of the walk. The church must be right around that corner.” But I was wrong. Repeatedly.
On a January weekday afternoon, I didn’t meet many people along the way. Besides a few homeless people who seemed to be living under the arches, mostly I saw locals dressed in sweats, using the arcade for exercise. I presume that in the summer you’d come upon a lot of sweaty tourists instead.
The arcade rewards you for your effort with expansive views over the countryside and the city, as well as the impressive Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca at the top. When I arrived, a service was in progress, so I couldn’t take any pictures of the interior, but it’s certainly more ornate than the rather simple, yet grand, exterior.
For me, the walk down was harder, since my knees began to complain—loudly. It was, nevertheless, much quicker. If the walk up doesn’t appeal to you, ask at the visitor’s center at Piazza Maggiore where you can catch the “train”—one of those tacky tourist buses meant to look like a train, but it does the job!—up to the top. Then you could either take the train back down again, or walk down.
I’d highly recommend doing what I did and arriving when the sun is low in the sky; always better for photography. In a warmer season it would also be more bearable to do that walk either early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Loved your report because we stayed in Bologna and considered that ‘hike’ up the hill and then decided to leave it to others – you’ve convinced me that I am glad I didn’t take it, but I sure am glad that you did. Great photos and tale!
Thanks, Jackie! I’m glad I did it!
It’s funny because in Mediterranean countries – such as Italy and Greece – one will often find the elderly walking up and down seemingly impossible hills on a daily basis. I’ve never been to Bologna, but it certainly sounds gorgeous. I shall be sure to take good walking shoes and not walk in the heat of the day.
It’s such a healthy habit! My problem is I don’t tend to walk at home, but I walk A LOT when I travel, so especially in the first few days it can be a challenge.
The arcade is fascinating. I loved the picture of San Luca Portico and would love to see it.When you said you didn’t know what you were getting yourself into, I chuckled as I am the same way. If something looks interesting, why not pursue it! Good for you! It was worth the hike up (and down).
I seem to make that particular comment a lot lately. As I’ve gotten older I’ve gotten used to planning less than I used to. Does that mean I’ve gotten wiser or more foolish?
Thanks for the tips. The views seem to be worth the walk uphill.
Good tips, Bologna is such a great city to explore. We never made it to the sanctuary, an excuse to return 🙂
Any excuse will do! Mine is the food!
I walked up the Portico di San Luca some years ago and loved it, particularly as it is so photogenic. What struck me most was the lack of other people about – we didn’t see anyone apart from a lone jogger (I think we went in April or May, but I don’t know what it would be like later in the year).
This was January, and there were joggers here and there, but that was all. It’s a nice way to get out of the busy-ness of the city.