I remember when I first came to Berlin in the 90’s, my first apartment was near the river, huge, had an extra attic, had high ceilings, still had a coal-based oven and no bathroom. We put the bathtub in the living as a piece of artistic decoration…! Anyway, as Berlin became trendy, Germans from other parts of the country refused to live in such “uncivilised” conditions and the 1890 building was given an overhaul and basically sold off to developers. Now that particular apartment is for sale for €380,000!

Bukchon is definitely prettier, but I saw more tourists than locals there. I gave the t-shirt to my son but haven’t seen him wear it even once. Maybe I’ll claim it back…

Exactly! Ikseon was more lively and interesting. Bukchon was more beautiful, but duller. I enjoyed both!

Thank you!

Me too!

Yes, but I’d rather have them revived for the benefit of locals rather than tourists. It shouldn’t just be a façade maintained in order to attract visitors. Bukchon seems to have moved that way, whereas Ikseon seems, from my outsider’s view, more like a living neighborhood. Yet it also seems distinctly more threatened.

Ikseon was mostly very local and somewhat run-down, but with some businesses meant for visitors from outside: a tea-room, some restaurants, a few galleries, etc. I think it could go either way. Both are mostly residential, but one has locals walking around outside while the other has tourists.